Eswatini
- pete
- 3 hours ago
- 5 min read
A combination of Easter weekend and Mozambican Women's Day gave the staff and students a nice 5-day weekend at AISM. Considering Sol and I stayed put for spring break, we both were geared up for a drive across the border to Eswatini.
Eswatini (formerly known as Swaziland) is a small, landlocked country that remains one of the last legitimate monarchies. The culture remains rich as are the efforts and successes in environmental and natural conservation. Eswatini borders South Africa and Mozambique to the east. A two-hour drive puts Sol and I at the border, and two hours later we drive (literally) across the country to Malolotja National Park.
Needless to say, it is a beautiful place. It is a bit higher in elevation than I'm used to and gave me the opportunity to inhale some chilled & crisp air. It was perfect. Sol and I went on a stroll that afternoon followed by a longer and somewhat strenuous hike the next day.
That evening brought in some dense fog, so I warmed myself with a bit of whisky. A nice wood stove in the cabin had us both snoring by 8pm.
The next day, Sol and I hit the path for our hike to a waterfall.
It was good to hike again. Feels like I haven't really stretched my legs like that since Colorado. Makes me miss those Rocky Mountains.
After the hike, I am obligated by tradition to sample a local beer. This pilsner tasted great! And exactly like every other pilsner. That's ok, I'll take it with gratitude.
With my thirst quenched, we're off to Hlane Royal National Park...
A two-hour drive back east the way we came (near the border) landed us at a park famous for a central watering hole in which the reception desk, restaurant, and dozen or so cabins revolve around. This preserve isn't like Kruger; it has separate areas for the lions and rhinos, not because of how they'd interact, but in the way in which they are guarded. The rhinos are rather spectacular and it is worth giving credit to Eswatini leadership for saving these animals. They send guards roaming the area day and night with a standing order to shoot to kill any human they see. The last successful poacher was many years ago.
But Sol and I didn't see rhinos right off the bat. Instead, I contented myself with some rather colorful birds surrounding our bungalow.
Let's keep with the birds! Sol and I took a rest on our first morning in Hlane, but our second morning kicked off with a 5:30am sunrise safari drive.
One reason I really love this part of Africa is that I get to experience strange variations of the birds and insects and other animals that are normally seen in North America. Everything is kind of the same, but just a bit different. That makes it exciting.
Yup, everything kind of the same, but a little bit different.
Except we don't have lions in North America.
They seemed to pop out of nowhere in the bushes next to our car and walked toward us. Instinctively, our guide popped it in reverse and we gently backed away.
Sol and I haven't seen male lions yet (surprisingly), and this was our first encounter. They are as majestic and intimidating as one might expect.
It is something about the size of the paws and head that scare me, but honestly, I think it is their confidence that is most awe-inspiring. Hundreds of thousands of years of evolving into an apex predator gives them an aura of self-confidence. Nothing regularly hunts lions. It is king and very well aware of it.
The morning drive wrapped up by driving next to a small pond where an elephant was rehydrating in preparation for the hot day ahead.
However, the enjoyment of our little excursion to Eswatini doesn't slow down the most important aspects of our routine. Solanyel is hell-bent on preparing for her upcoming medical examination and visiting a remote African watering hole won't hold her back. There was a little restaurant/cafe area where she sat for a bit and her surroundings tickled my funny bone.
And this brings us to another highlight of an incredibly enjoyable trip.
These are the herbivore equivalent of an "apex predator". They are called "mega-herbivores" meaning they don't have predators once they hit maturation.
Needless to say, they carried the same air of confidence the lions did.
I wish I knew more about rhino hierarchy but in the short time I saw them, there was a sense of who was boss.
Alright, let's check back in with the lady. Solanyel, how you doin'?!
The afternoon on our last full day, the pair came trudging back to the watering hole to get muddy.
On departure day, I got up bright and early. I lit a lantern and made my coffee before moseying down to the watering hole to see what kind of action was going on.
I should make note before continuing that I wasn't staring at animals the whole time. 90% of the time nothing is there and nothing happens. It broke my heart a bit as there was an older couple who arrived after the rhinos departed in the morning. We sat there until mid-late afternoon until the couple got up and walked past me. They asked when the animals show up. I told them it is unpredictable. The only thing we can be sure of is that they will return, and the only thing we can't be sure of is when. The woman looked at me with pleading eyes and said it is important that they see the big animals, but they had to go soon. With a sympathetic look, I could only shrug.
After they dejectedly walked to their car, I resumed reading Dune: Messiah. It is book 2 of 6 of the Dune series by Frank Herbert. It is my second time through the series and I'm re-obsessed with it. Feel free to message me and we can chat about Alia or Duncan Idaho.
And yes, don't worry Mom. I have the unabridged paperback of The Count of Monte Cristo up next. Good things come to those who wait, and I can't wait.
Now, where were we?
Right. The last morning with coffee and sunrise.
It was a cloudy morning, so no bright light permeating the area. Yet there were no other human visitors at the watering hole looking to observe animals. I had it all to myself as I enjoyed the company of a trio of rhinos coming by for some water and a snack.
I sat there for a solid 30 minutes, slowly sipping my coffee and enjoying the peace and quiet, watching these absolute units sauntering around the dirt before I noticed that rather evasive creature in the background.
Until it opened its mouth.
I was stoked! It was very cool to finally see a crocodile hanging out. I was enthralled.
That passing impala wrapped up a thoroughly enjoyable trip to Eswatini. Sol and I both found it invigorating and bucket-filling. I can't recommend it enough. In that spirit, I'd like to share with you a video I made for my family (and, hesitantly now for public viewing), as well as a gift of big butts to wrap up.
And a gift of big butts, as promised.
